Have you ever looked at your jewelry and wondered about the history behind it? Who designed it? Was it crafted by hand or made with a machine? Is there a special story behind the specific design? So many questions to be answered!
Jewelry is full of history and lore. Throughout the decades, jewelry styles have changed many times based on desires, trends, and resources. In this article, we’re delving into the various jewelry eras, discovering what was popular and what influenced the trends of the period.
Georgian Jewelry
Circa 1714-1837
This jewelry era was named for the four English kings named George that ruled in succession of one another during this period. Pieces from this era not only drew influence from England, but Germany, France, and Italy alike. Georgian era jewelry was handcrafted and often took long lengths of time to produce. This is because artisan tools and techniques were fairly rudimentary; however, the metal work is so distinctly intricate that it could have only been made by hand. The designs are bold, ornate, and symmetrical. Bows and swags were popular motifs, and metal-working techniques like cannetille and repoussé were common. Garnet, topaz, coral, and diamonds were fashionable and were often placed in high karat yellow gold and silver settings. The diamonds used in Georgian jewelry were usually rose cut or table cut and often foil backed to give them more shine.
Victorian Jewelry
Circa 1837-1901
Victorian era jewelry was named after Britain’s Queen Victoria who reigned from 1837-1901. Her sixty-four-year reign is usually divided into three parts: The Romantic Period, The Grand Period, and The Aesthetic Period. Jewelry from each period has its own distinct characteristics and includes different styles that were popularized during her reign. Victoria often reflected her emotions in her style. Therefore, jewelry from The Romantic Period was highly sentimental, with feminine motifs like flowers and hearts. These designs reflected the Queen’s deep devotion to her beloved husband, Prince Albert.
After Albert’s untimely death, Britain entered The Grand Period. During this time, Queen Victoria wanted to remain fashionable while in mourning and “mourning jewelry” was created using jet, onyx and other dark materials. Neo-Classical designs based on archaeological finds in Greece and Rome were also popular, as well as Egyptian and Assyrian themes. Recurrent designs included crescent shapes, snakes, and cameos.
The Aesthetic Period of Victoria’s rule marked a new era of looking forward. There were major cultural and industrial shifts taking place and there was a renewed appreciation for hand-made art, ultimately resulting in the Arts and Crafts movement around 1880. Jewelry from this period steered away from the heavier and darker themes from previous periods and instead pieces were designed to be lighter and daintier. Women were beginning to lead more active lifestyles and were becoming increasingly independent, and the jewelry of this period reflects this cultural shift. Gemstones most commonly used in Victorian jewelry were diamonds, jet, garnet, amethyst, coral, turquoise, tortoise shell, and chalcedony, which were often set in silver and yellow gold. Diamonds were usually rose cuts or early brilliant cuts.
Art Nouveau Jewelry
Circa 1895-1915
Art Nouveau is French for “new art.” This style was greatly influenced by the Japanese art that was being imported to Europe at the time. It is also seen as an artistic revolt against the mechanical themes and methods of manufacturing that came out of the Industrial Revolution. Nouveau designs were more organic and asymmetrical. Art Nouveau jewelry incorporated sweeping and flowing lines with natural motifs such as flowers, insects, birds, and the female form. This era of artistic expression was a reaction to a number of cultural shifts happening in France at the time, most notably, women’s rights movements. That is why jewelry pieces from this period often depict women as a reflection of men’s fantasies (sweet, sexualized, and non-threatening). Diamonds were uncommon in Art Nouveau jewelry and were overshadowed by the use of colorful enamels and glass, and gemstones such as pearls, opals, amber, moonstone, tourmaline, amethyst, and chalcedony. Noted Art Nouveau designers were Rene Lalique, a glass artisan renowned for his stunning creations, and Louis Comfort Tiffany, who designed stained glass windows and lamps (hence Tiffany lamps), glass mosaics, blown glass, and more.
Edwardian Jewelry
Circa 1901-1915
This jewelry era was named for England’s King Edward VII. His reign was marked by wealth and opulence, and jewelry was flaunted to reflect one’s affluence. Edwardian jewelry was made using the finest gemstones and precious metals. These pieces used traditional designs and employed the garland style with fluid lines and ornamental motifs. Tiaras were commonly worn by the elite, and were designed to be large and ornate. The use of platinum in jewelry became widespread and was valued not just for its pure color, but for its strength as well. Platinum’s durability allowed for more intricate designs and the use of delicate filigree. Edwardian jewelry is distinctive for its white-on-white look using fine platinum filigree set with top quality pearls and diamonds. Simple chain necklaces with delicate pendants replaced pins and brooches in women’s fashion trends. Earrings that dangled were very much considered high fashion and were designed to daintily move and sway.
Art Deco Jewelry
Circa 1915-1939
The term Art Deco is derived from the International Exposition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts that took place in Paris, France in 1925. Art Deco designs were those made between WWI and WWII and were much bolder than the delicate and flowing styles that were characteristic of Edwardian and Art Nouveau pieces. Art Deco jewelry is known for its geometric shapes and vivid contrasting colors that were achieved using richly hued gemstones such as diamonds, black onyx, lapis lazuli, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, jade, turquoise, and coral. Platinum was the most common metal used, but jewelry was also crafted from white gold. Designs were streamlined and linear and were achieved by the growing use of machines, which allowed for these jewels to be produced much quicker and in larger quantities than ever before.
Retro Jewelry
Circa 1940’s
During WWII, gemstones and platinum were in short supply and in some cases were restricted from use, in turn causing gold and enamel to become very popular. Various shades of gold, such as rose and green, could be found in a single piece of jewelry and were used to enhance the design and make up for the lack of color from gemstones. Because the import of gemstones from countries like South Africa was infrequent, synthetic gems were often used as a substitution. Snake chains were popular for necklaces and bracelets, and were known for their heavy appearance, but lightweight feel. Flowers, bows, and animal depictions were common motifs employed in retro jewelry designs. Gemstones that were lighter in color such as citrine, aquamarine, and amethyst as well as smaller diamonds, sapphires, and rubies were used sparingly as accents. Often, when resources were sparse, those seeking fresh designs would have to have their existing jewelry remodeled into something new.
Vintage & Antique Jewelry San Diego
Searching for one-of-a-kind pieces from these jewelry eras in San Diego? You’ve come to the right place. Leo Hamel Fine Jewelers offers the best selection of vintage and antique jewelry in San Diego! Our expansive showroom offers a wide variety of vintage and antique styles from the brands you love at incredible prices. Stop by today and see for yourself all that we have to offer!
source https://www.leohamel.com/blog/index.php/2018/12/jewelry-eras/
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